Interview with Dr. Gianfranco De Felici

10-11-20202

Chemist, Panel leader and sensory analyst of virgin olive oils (VO Oils), expert in the oil production sector. Manager, as well as teacher, of multiple courses for panel leaders and tasters organized by the Customs and Monopoly Agency. Coordinator of the panels operating in the chemical laboratories of Customs specializing in the olive oil sector. Member of the Italian delegation in the Expert Group for organoleptic analysis set up within the International Olive Council (IOC) based in Madrid.
Participation, on behalf of the Customs and Monopoly Agency, in national technical commissions on food sectors, conferences and committees at EU and international level. Primarily Regent Director of the chemical laboratory of Customs in Trieste and, subsequently, that of the Coordination Office of the analysis activities - Central management of product analysis and chemical laboratories in Rome. Head of the Tasting Committee of VO Oils of LAMET, Department of Economics and Law - University of Cassino, recognized by MIPAAF.
Member of national and international juries for the evaluation of VO Oils. Head Panel of the Jury of the Ercole Olivario National Competition (2019-2020)
He contributed to the creation of a tasting panel, recognized by the IOC, at the chemical laboratory of the Russian Customs Federation based in Moscow.
Author of the book "OLIO E I SENSI (OIL AND THE SENSES)" and articles on food products.

1 - In your childhood, how was extra virgin olive oil (EVO OIL) used in your family? Did you like it? Do you remember a particular dish or recipe, usually prepared with EVO OIL?

As a child, going to the mill to crush the olives and taste the new green and fragrant oil was a great emotion, a real celebration. I still remember the sound of the big granite wheels crushing the olives. For my father, satisfaction was the deserving result of a year of hard work. For my mother, olive oil was a fundamental element for the preparation of everyday dishes. The simplicity and uniqueness of "Pane e Olio (Bread and Olive Oil)" represents the synthesis, in my opinion, of passion and love for the land.

2 - At what moment of your life was your interest in EVO Oil born and under what circumstances?

As I have already mentioned, I can confirm that my interest in oil was born, albeit in an unconscious way, from childhood. In fact it is from that age that, sitting on a jute sack placed on the ground, I observed my parents during the olive harvest and for fun I detached the olives, by emulation, from a twig full of olive fruit and dropped them into the basket.

3 - How has EVO Oil influenced your life and your career?

Oil has always been part of my professional experience first of all as a consumer and then it was the topic that aroused in me a deep interest both from a scientific, productive and regulatory point of view.
I cannot forget that olive oil was the subject of the competition for pharmacists which allowed me to start working in a Public Administration.
Subsequently, step by step, I managed to obtain recognition as a taster and, after a few years, that of Panel Leader. Meanwhile, through the acquisition of more and more in-depth knowledge, I have had the honor of being part of technical commissions at national, EU and international level (International Olive Council - IOC).
Even though I recently left my job for the age limit, I was called to assume the Panel leader of the Tasting Committee recognized by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (MIPAAF) set up at the University of Cassino and appointed by the same MIPAAF, Supervisory Agent on behalf of the Consortium Sabina PDO. 
EVO OIL continues to be, therefore, a very welcome companion in my life.

4- You have visited many countries while doing your work, can you tell us where and how did you see that Italian EVO OIL was used or sold?

Basically there are three countries that I have visited for work, Belgium (Brussels headquarters of the EU Commission), Spain (Madrid, headquarters of the IOC) and Russia, where I contributed to the training of tasters and two panel leaders, as well as to creation of a Panel, recognized by the IOC, at the chemical laboratory of customs in Moscow.
The latter was a unique human and professional experience given that Russia, due to its geographical position, is not a producing country and consequently there is no widespread "olive oil culture".
Italian EVO Oil is certainly present in Brussels both in shops and restaurants, especially in those run by Italians.
In Madrid it is objectively difficult for Italian EVO Oil to be sold or used in restaurants. In Russia, however, Italian EVO oil is highly appreciated, especially if it is of quality.

5 - In Italy the consumer often prefers "unfiltered EVO OIL". What do you think about it?

I do not understand this preference because, despite the technological innovations of the oil production plants, the presence of pulp residues and vegetation water does not contribute to maintaining the quality of the product over time due to the natural trigger of fermentation and oxidative phenomena.
In my opinion, therefore, the EVO oil must always be filtered even if it loses some polyphenols, the elimination of pulp residues and vegetation water, agents that respectively determine fermentation and oxidative phenomena allow to significantly prolong the quality of the EVO Oil produced over time.

6 - Can you tell us what are the rules that best protect the consumer?

Certainly there are many standards that define the characteristics of the quality of an EVO Oil, but in particular I believe that the provisions on labeling are very important, also because they determine the mandatory and optional information that every consumer can read on the package.

7 - Do you believe that the EVO Oil List and the EVO Oil Service Cart, which many fine restaurants present today, are tools for information and dissemination of “Quality EVO Oil”?

They are certainly excellent tools to let the consumer know Evo Oils from different territories and appreciate the diversities and peculiar characteristics that can be found in the sense of smell and taste.  
If I could suggest more, it would be important for an expert to recommend the most suitable EVO oils for a certain type of dish. Once the customer has found the most pleasant one, a 100ml bottle will be provided to the table. The residual oil that will not be used for the dressing will be left at the customer's disposal.

8 - How do you think you can make the difference between an EVO Oil of high organoleptic, nutritional and cultural value from one without personality and of lesser value?

In most cases, taste and smell are the elements that determine the difference between a high-quality oil and a low quality one, even if they fall into the same commercial category, for example EVO Oil. The consumer must be informed that the use of a fine EVO oil can improve the organoleptic and health characteristics of food to be paired.

9- How is it possible to understand the cost of a quality EVO Oil?

Immediately and clearly speaking, the price must not be understood as a mere number, but as the sum of costs due to various factors: legal obligations, production processes, processing and marketing, in addition to the certification for PDO and PGI EVO Oils.
Usually a high price corresponds to a high-quality product from an organoleptic and nutritional point of view to which is added, for the EVO Oils with denomination of origin, also the peculiarity of the territory of origin. 

10 - You are the author of the book "OLIO E I SENSI (Oil and the Senses)", would you like to tell us about this experience?

The idea of writing a book on EVO Oil stems from the need to make known this excellence of nature not only to those who carry out the activity of taster, but also to enthusiasts who had the curiosity to know more.
First of all I thought of a different title from those usually used for this type of publications, in order to highlight the importance and the close link between the organoleptic characteristics of the oil and the sensory organs through which the aromas can be evaluated and appreciated and the flavors that characterize it.
" OLIO E I SENSI (Oil and the Senses) " seemed to me the title best suited to the goal I set out to achieve.
It is a theoretical - practical manual with which I have tried to provide readers with simple and  coherent information regarding the mythology and history of olive oil, the legislation that regulates the sector, the methods and phases to obtain it as well as the rules governing the tasting and consequent commercial classification of the product. 
A particular section has been dedicated to the labeling which constitutes the “identity card” which must guarantee the consumer the chemical and organoleptic characteristics declared by the producer.
The book has met with some success and I am working on a second edition which I hope to finish shortly.